A significant breakthrough has been achieved for the emerging Eastern Cape hemp industry after local innovators successfully produced hemp fibre using existing cotton-processing technology available in SA.
The development has demonstrated that the country already possesses the capability to support the full hemp value chain from farming and fibre processing to textile production and weaving.
According to Duma Maquebela, Buffalo City branch manager of Small Enterprise Development Finance Agency, the breakthrough signals new economic opportunities for the province’s agricultural and manufacturing sectors.
For years, hemp farmers in the province have struggled with one major challenge – a lack of market access despite successful cultivation.
Archie Madumane, a Stutterheim farmer and member of the Eastern Cape Hemp Producer’s Association, told the Go! many growers had been left without buyers for their harvested crops.
“We have grown hemp successfully, but the problem was there was nobody to buy what we had planted and harvested,” Madumane said.
That situation is now expected to change following the successful local processing of hemp fibre. Raj Jagesar, founder of Ledile Textile and Fibre Processing, said the project proved that South Africa’s existing textile-processing equipment can indeed be adapted for hemp production.
“We were told it could not be done using the equipment we have in South Africa, but we proved the doubters wrong,” said Jagesar. Samples from the first production run of hemp fabric were showcased during a stakeholder engagement session held in Nelson Mandela Bay.
The event also featured clothing designed by the Koloni Hub Fashion Incubator and manufactured by Time Clothing.
Ledile plans to focus on producing organic hemp fabric for the premium European textile market.
The next phase of the initiative will focus on establishing clusters of small- to medium-scale hemp farmers supported by infrastructure, seed supply and technical assistance.
Dr Sunshine Blouw from the Eastern Cape Rural Development Agency said hemp offers major potential because of its short growing cycle and adaptability.
“Hemp has a faster return for farmers than cannabis because it is harvested in around three months, before a flower is formed,” Blouw explained.
He said that the crop is suitable for both winter and summer planting, creating year-round farming opportunities.
Blouw believes strong government support will be essential during the industry’s early stages.
“For the first three years, government should support the farmers 100%,” he said.
“That is how other countries support new industries. If we do that, we’ll then build the necessary confidence with farmers that they can make money from this crop.”
The Hempire initiative is funded through partnerships involving the Eastern Cape Rural Development Agency, Small Enterprise Development Finance Agency, the Department of Small Business Development and commercial partners.
Provincial government continues to back hemp production because of the plant’s versatility and economic potential.
Blouw noted that more than 50,000 products can be manufactured from hemp, describing the industry as a “multi-billion rand” opportunity for SA.
Among these opportunities, the textile sector remains one of the most accessible.
